Monday, 31 January 2011

Getting Messy with Tiramisu.

Well, as promised I come bearing gifts and snippets of food-related experience!

So this weekend was dedicated to having a bit of much needed R n R, and I reference, in a cheesy fashion, Rock and Roll. Blah blah blah a very fun and messy cocktail party ensued, with lots of yummy concoctions and home made treats. 
I was in two minds as to what I should make for said party, a cake would have been too small, and I thought it a little too cliche and unsophisticated to make brownies for a house-party. So I went with the next natural choice, Tiramisu! I say natural choice, the thing I was craving most. What can I say, i'm selfishly indulgent! I don't really feel you can truly understand a dish until you know at least the basics of where it came from, much like you can't make a modern twist unless you understand the original recipe. So in a bid to understand the ancestry of the humble Tiramisu, I was expecting to go back hundreds of years. Not quite what I found, but interesting nonetheless. 

First of all, being entirely word of mouth you can't trust sources, because people are selfish, and will take credit for things that doesn't belong to them, case and point, Alexander Graham Bell. But according to most of the rumours and whispers amongst the food community, this dessert was formed in the 70's or 80's by a tiny bakery called Le Beccherie. Now, it seems logical, the next step. The region in which it was invented, and I say invented with all meanings of the word, because this is definitely not a classical Italian recipe, was in Treviso, just outside of Venice, where all of the ingredients found in Tiramisu (Or Tiramesu in Venetian dialect) are very prominent in that region alone, marscapone, strong coffee, marsala wine (!), savoiardi biscuits. The reason I use an exclamation after the marsala is that, being literally a "pick me up" dessert, it was often given to the elderly and sick children, to give them energy with the sugar and coffee, and strength with the egg yolks. Also, it is often interchanged between other sweet dessert wines like muscat wine or sometimes dark rum or a moccachino-esque mixture. I hate to say it, but this is not a sophisticated dessert and it's not one of the more amazing Italian classics.

Now, i'm not going to go too much into the different recipes because I honestly would be here for hours, and it'd be incredibly boring to read. But everything can be interchanged, it seems. 
Does it need to contain savoiardi bicuits? 
Does it need to contain coffee? 
Does it need to contain whipped cream? 
Does it need to contain raw egg whites? 
Does it need to be dusted with cocao? 

It seems that the only thing that's so concrete about this dessert is that it has marscapone and egg yolks, and some people don't even put those in! It can get silly but as I said, it's very useful to know the original recipe. So that's what I did, I went on a hunt and I found the original recipe. How cool! Well, I can't say original recipe ever, but it's the first recipe to ever be published in "Vin Veneto" in 1981 when they traced the dessert to Le Beccherie. Hooray! It shall be included a little further down!

A little more on it though, not to sound patronising, but just so we're all at the same point. If you've never had Tiramisu before, it's alternating layers of coffee and alcohol soaked savoiardi biscuits and zabaglione cream, sometimes being topped with whipped cream dusted with cocao powder. And it is creamy and very yummy and actually one of my favourite desserts. Alas, onwards!

The First Published Recipe for Tiramisu
As Credited to Vin Veneto Magazine and Le Beccherie!
Makes enough for about 20 servings!

350ml espresso coffee
2 teaspoons sugar
4 egg yolks
100gr sugar
450gr marscapone cheese
30 savoiardi biscuits
2 tbsp cocao powder

- Brew your coffee strong! Dissolve 2 teaspoons of sugar while it's still warm and leave to cool a bit.
- Beat the egg yolks until light and fluffy and add the sugar and beat again.
- Combine the marscapone cheese to the mixture.
- Dip half the lady fingerss in the coffee and place in a pan in a single layer
- Spread half the marscapone mixture over the biscuits and repeat.
- Leave to chill for 3-4 hours and dust with cocao powder

Done! Simple as, it seems basic enough huh? I do worry about getting food poisoning and though i'm sure it's perfectly safe, eating raw egg makes me nervous. So I do mine a little differently. If i'm honest, this recipe was completely made up when I was in the process of making it, and I used what I had to hand, living in a small town, marsala wine is not exactly in abundance, it took me long enough to find marscapone! So i've had to sub in some bits and bobs along the way, and i've altered slightly the recipe. But it's not just me, thousands of people are as paranoid as I am! So here goes.

Jess' Sailor Jerry's Tiramisu.
Serves 20 big portions, or 30-40 small portions. This is a beast of a Tiramisu!

500gr Marscapone cheese (room temp)
4 egg yolks
8 tbsp caster sugar
2 packets of savoiarde biscuits (about 50 biscuits)
250ml double cream
4 shots of Sailor Jerry's spiced rum
6 tsp strong coffee diluted in a fair amount of hot water
4 teaspoons vanilla extract
Cocao powder for dusting

- Beat the eggs until they get fluffy and lovely and light, then add the sugar and beat some more. Add 2 shots of the coffee mixture, 2 teaspoons of vanilla and the last 2 shots of Sailor Jerry's.
- Prepare a double boiler and put the egg mixture dish over it and beat thoroughly until it becomes a warm custard. Keep it moving and stir thoroughly! Now's the time to take it off the hob, it doesn't need anymore heat.
- Get all of your marscapone cheese and mash it so it's soft and pliable, then pour your egg mixture into it. This is your zabaglione custard/cream!
- Brew your coffee and add 2 shots of Sailor Jerry's and 2 teaspoons of vanilla, and dip your savoiarde biscuits in and layer them across the bottom of your dish (about 8inch x 12inch x 3inch dish).

- Whip half of the double cream to stiff peaks and mix into the zabaglione. Mix well and try get all the lumps out.

- Pour some of your zabaglione-whipped cream mixture and spread across the biscuits.

- Soak and place another layer of savoiarde biscuits, and pour another layer of zabaglione custard and spread!

- If you have enough room soak and prepare another layer of biscuits and pour the last bit of your zabaglione.

- Whip the last half of the double cream to soft peaks and spread on top!
- Chill in the fridge for 5+ hours or overnight.
- Just before you serve, dust a thin layer of cocao powder on top, don't dust it too soon because it'll go soggy on top!
Sorry this one's a bit blurry!

And there you go! I gave you a double helping of Tiramisu-ey goodness, with photographic steps. Aren't I just a dedicated little blogger.

So after all that creamy, sexy goodness, I bid you farewell!

Peace
JR

Tuesday, 18 January 2011

An Ode to Inspiration.

Welcome, welcome, delicious deviants in the depths of Internet slurry, into 2011!
I have a good and reliable feeling that this is going to be very much the same as last year, full of work and hopes of winning the lottery.

Alas! I jest, it will be a difficult year. It might have something to do with the fact that I may (or, equally as likely, may not) graduate University this year, and be flung into the world of work in what I can only describe as a state of pure and utter terror. I have visions of trawling over endless job applications reading "Experienced Writer...", sighing, sending emails to receive either nothing or the classic "I'm sorry but because of the lack of professional experience, we feel it is not right to take you on at this point in time". At this point it would seem I am already prepared (or just pessimistic) in the anticipation of my own defeat, i'm not entirely sure whether that puts me ahead or behind my fellow graduates this year.

These thoughts (and suggestions from various friends) prompted me to debate the idea of simply getting a separate generic job and writing my own works and maybe get something published. I would hope, with my almost 6 years of slavery to retail, that I would manage at least something in the manner of assistant manager, dragging in at least a little income. This led me to thinking of expanding my *ahem* extensive writing repetoire to that of cook books. Now I know that I am but a fledgling still in the grand scheme of all that is cookery, but next to Fantasy it is my favourite genre. I reckon that with a lot of practice and a few years of testing out recipes I could make a half decent collection to publish. 

So flicking through my stack of cookery books and internet bookmarks, it prompted me to pick out my top seven of literary masterpieces and online culinary havens that I have taken a personal loving to! Something that I might someday achieve. I know some may not really be applicable because they are collections of hundreds of different people's recipes, but the concept is generally the same. 
This is not a top ten, nor a top five, but yes, top seven. I'm not one for rules, and I refuse to include numbers that aren't my complete favourites...plus, i've still alot to learn, and I want to leave space, just in case. So nyah!

7) All Recipes:
This website is a nice little addition to my go-to selection when looking for general ideas for stuff to eat. It is entirely community based, but i've found a few gems in here. If you have a little patience, it can really pay off!

6) Nigella Lawson:
Like many people before me, and many after I do not doubt, I do have a rather questionable love for Nigella Lawson. She may not have the most amazing credentials in regards to other TV chefs, but she sure can put on a cracking spread, and spread a 'mysterious' rise in interest in the culinary arts for teenage boys. I have been a follower of her for a good while but only recently acquired my first book, and she makes for an awesome read, if I may say so myself. 


5) Hummingbird Bakery:
This teeny little gem is something for someone who is seriously addicted to sugar. It is not for the faint hearted, if you want to reduce yourself to a calm sugar-induced coma-esque state, this book is for you. It's very unlike me to really like this one, apart from it contains many cupcakes, but it's girly and pretty and glitter galore in there. One for the kitsch and for people visiting kids, although I do warn you, it'll take several hours and a few broken brooms to get little ones down from the ceiling after these. Utter delight!



4) Green & Blacks: Unwrapped
Quite possibly this will be one of the favourites upon first glance, it is chocolate. And in keeping with the whole stereotypical 'Female=Obsession with Chocolate' that I don't fully understand, here is the answer to your chocolate-related questions. It's quite a skinny little book but if you like proper chocolate - not just the sweet bars you find littering every shop - it is a good choice. If you buy this simply for the one recipe of chocolate mousse, it is £8 well spent my friends. 
ps - I very much wish I had that apron!


3) BBC Good Food:
Good old BBC, you never fail to entertain me in some manner. This website is pretty awesome, but unlike it's lesser-loved sister up at number 7, it has a little quality control! And it has a selection from loads of different TV chefs, which is always fun and sensational.

2) Gourmet Traveller:
I have to admit, I am quite into experimenting. And jumping into something inexplicably complicated is a trait that I am no stranger to. Sometimes stupid, and many mistakes later I finally get something that I can be really proud of. This website is a new addition to my top list of loved literature, and it truly deserves it's place. Thankyou Auntie!

1) James Martin Desserts:
I know I shouldn't favouritise when it comes to cooking, but I do love me some cake, and if you have a sweet tooth (or, consequently, gum) this book is one of the best out there. And it may seem a little much to have three numbers dedicated to cakes and sweet things but hey! It's not exactly a brick, but the recipes in there are easy, and though common, they are just impeccably executed. Without meaning to sound like a mindless spam machine, this book is immense, and I would not mind gaining 20 stone if the reason was this. 
Hats off to you, Mr Martin!

That was fun.
Right, onwards. To all of you scouting through and finding only pickings of food-related knowledge, I do apologise, but it's all about the writing at the moment. Things are becoming very real at Casa del Field and I have lots to think about! So tonight, seeing as i'm feeling a little uninspired on the culinary front (she says, after scoffing a hefty piece of home-made lasagne and salad), I will let you stew in your (hopefully) inspired juices for another few days and I will return with a double dose of sexy recipes!

Peace
JR

Monday, 20 December 2010

Nadolig Llawen!

(...that's Merry Christmas in Welsh!)

First of all, I would very much like to apologise for my lack of posts in recent weeks! For those dedicated few who enjoy reading my blog, i've had an unfortunately large amount of work to do.

So Christmas time is almost upon us, I have scoffed most of my advent calendar, i'm living next to my open fire, and I am very looking forward to visiting the Birmingham German markets to top off my Christmas spirit. Some of the best things in life come from this market, bratwurst hot dogs, wheat beer, mulled wine and german cinnamon donuts make me über happy.

 My vat of tea, accompany my home-made gingerbread hearts.

So everyone is ready at my house to get started with my Christmas dinner, and it's all about the traditional! Every year I always eat with my family, always home made, with me attempting to help make the Christmas dinner while my mum cusses me for getting in the way. But this year, this year is the year I will finally get to help!

For one, this year, it's all about the home-made presents! So i've got some crazy-yummy gingerbread cookies going on! Along with some baba al limoncello, which, in English, are little balls of vanilla sponge soaked in a limoncello (Italian lemon liquor) syrup. And also some Gravadlax, you know, for a savoury option, which is an alternative to smoked salmon, and, in my opinion, actually a little bit nicer! I do have some none home-made stuff mixed in with it, unfortunately I didn't have the time to soak my fruit for Christmas cake/pudding, but it's the spirit that counts!

So wishing everyone a Merry little Christmas here is my recipe for the week:

Jess' Gingerbread Biscuits
Makes about 20 reasonable sized biscuits

225g plain flour, sifted well!
A pinch of salt
2 tsp bicarbinate of soda
1 heaped teaspoon of ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
55g unsalted butter
115g soft brown sugar
115 golden syrup
1 tablespoon evaporated milk

Preheat oven temperature - 190C degrees, Gas Mark 5
- First of all sift your flour very well, there's nothing worse then getting lumps of flour randomly stuck in your biscuits, you can sometimes get away with it in cakes, but in biscuits, it's really noticeable, so big no no just chucking it in! Then add the salt, bicarbinate and spices together with the sifted flour. 

- Next, heat your butter, sugar and syrup until everything's well dissolved then leave to cool a little.
- Once all finished and cooked, mix the dry ingredients with the cooked mixture and evaporated milk and work into a dough. To make your life a little bit easier, rub your hands with a teeny little bit of an unflavoured oil (groundnut if you have it, if not, vegetable is fine) so the it doesn't stick to your hands too much.
 
- Cover it in a bowl and chill in the fridge for about 30 minutes, this is important to do! It doesn't keep it's shape very well if you don't do this, so have patience!

- Grease 2 good sized baking sheets while you're waiting for it to chill and set aside.

- To roll out your biscuits you'll need the following, a rolling pin, a relatively big flat surface, a little extra flour, some cookie cutters, or some imagination and a small knife.

- Sprinkle your surface with flour and the rolling pin and roll out your dough until it's about 5mm thick, then cut it. I think I may have mentioned this in an earlier point, but, as tempting as it is. Do. Not. Twist. The. Cutters! Even though they don't rise a massive amount, they do rise, and they'll rise crooked if you twist. Also, it'll bugger up the rest of your dough and they won't be all pretty and flat and stuff!  With regards to shapes, you can do anything, if you're feeling unimaginative, you can just do round biscuits, if you're feeling festive you can do Christmas trees, if you're feeling geeky you can trace the white tree of Gondor...not that i've ever done that. Hmm!

 All rolled out ready to go!

- The point is, you can do literally anything you like, which is why I like making them for presents, you can personalise them! 

- But back to the baking! Stick them on your greased sheets and bakes for 10-15 minutes, remove from the oven, leave to cool for a few minutes, and turn out onto a wire rack. Sprinkle with a little sugar and a ground ginger and you are sorted. Voila!

- Perfect every time! And damn sexy if I may say so myself.

Spread a little too much, oops!

These really are gorgeous, very moreish as well, I have to keep making them smaller and smaller every time I make them because I eat so many. And at a weird cognitive stance i've not quite figured out, if I make them smaller i'll trick my brain into thinking i've had more. If you want to make them a little more special - if you're making them for presents for instance - melt a little bit of good quality dark chocolate over them, it doesn't have to be neat, in fact, it looks a little bit more arty and rustic if they aren't perfect. 

Also, as it's the time for mince pies (hooray!), i'll leave you with some interesting facts about mincemeat. As most people have probably realised, modern mincemeat doesn't actually have any meat in it - I say that, bar properly made mincemeat anyway - shop bought mincemeat doesn't have any meat in it. The original word mince comes from the Old English word to mynce (originally from Old French mincier, stemmed from the Latin minutia, which means smallness) which obviously means to crush or chop into small pieces. And the word meat comes from the Old English mete, which basically, just means food. It doesn't just mean what we characterise as 'meat' now, it meant everything that we ate. Which is where the word mincemeat actually comes from, it actually meant 'minced food'. As a bit of a kick-in-the-teeth ironic sort of thing, the original mincemeat actually did also have meat in it, even though it did just mean minced food. And it was often a way of covering up beef or pork or venison that was starting to decompose...yum.

But there ya go! You learn something new everyday. Honestly, don't know if I would be able to hack having a bit of rotting beef stuck in with my mince pies, as willing and open minded as I am, I don't know if my sweet tooth would allow it to pollute such a long-standing favourite.

To the humble mince pie!

So,
Nollaig Shona Dhuit
 Joyeux Noel
Froehliche Weihnachten
Prejeme Vam Vesele Vanoce a stastny Novy Rok
Feliz Navidad
and
Shinnen omedeto. Kurisumasu Omedeto

Have a beautiful Christmas!

Peace
JR